EXB issue 143 November 2015

Our November 2015 issue's chock full of fascinating reads, from an exposé on air pollution to an interview with the Whistleblower Award winner who stood up to Monsanto. Plus, our insider guide to Schöneberg.

THE TROUBLE WITH BERLINER LUFT Our "green" city boasts some of the worst-quality air in western Europe. The cuprit? Car emissions. What are we doing about it?

CROSSING THE LINE Would you marry, smuggle or illegally shelter a refugee? We met three Berliners willing to do whatever it took to help – even if that meant breaking the law.

STANDING UP TO MONSANTO An interview with French scientist Gilles-Eric Seralini, who won Germany's Whistleblower Award for his groundbreaking work exposing the harmful effects of herbicides and GMOs – and for his courage in standing up to the agro-chemical industry.

IS UBER OVER? The driving app everyone loves (or hates) was banned in Berlin this year. So what are they still doing here?

THE COMPANY THAT SAID NO The Turkish CEOs of Neukölln company Mutanox refused to sell razor wire to build the fence keeping refugees out of Hungary. One of them explains why.

SCHÖNEBERG It was home to Dietrich and Isherwood, to Bowie and Pop – but don't think the southewestern neighbourhood's glory days are behind it. We explore the borough's start-up and art scenes, talk to hardened long-term residents like boxer Graciano "Rocky" Rocchigiana and rapper Alpa Gun, have a gay day out on Motzstraße and show you our favourite spots, from a lipstick museum to an artisan apple shop to the most religious bowl of bibimbap in town.

Also in this issue:

PABLO LARRAIN The Chilean director's ruthless Catholicism satire The Club won a Silver Bear at this year's Berlinale. It hits German screens on November 5.

JOHN GRANT The veteran alt-rocker and lyricist extraordinaire (playing PBHFCLUB on November 26) tells us about his new album Grey Tickles, Black Pressure, his HIV diagnosis and why he's fluent in German.

NORDWIND The performance and art festival for all things Nordic (Nov 13-Dec 23) expands its focus to Russia this year. We've got your picks for the fest and an interview with artistic director Ricardo Ciontos.

BRITTA THIE The artist-model-director-star of Berlin-set web series Translantics, screening at Kino Babylon on November 27, tells us why she doesn't like being compared to Lena Dunham.

BEST OF BERLIN Coffee with a cause, the Spy Museum, Charlottenburg's new Russian jazz joint and some cute endangered turtles.

BERLIN BITES Peruvian ceviche, perfect pizza in Kreuzberg and an unexpected lecture on Georgian wine.

...And much, much more!